Spring–Summer 1999, Bless
October 1998, Paris
Throughout the 10 years, Margiela has kept presenting various alternatives to half-yearly collections and conventional shows. It is obvious that his criticism of fashion rituals has influenced the younger generations. One such successor is Bless, who had an opening with the release of a new item and retrospection at Colette on the first day of the collection week. Desiree Heiss is one of the female pair designs and explains their intention. “We want to change for us the images of fashion entirely,” she says. “It’s not an ideal structure that everyone works on an idea by a genius. It would be better to progress with partners that you can trust, than to dominate everyone by a designer’s ego. I appreciate spending time with family and friends, and would not like to spend my whole life just for fashion.” Bless was established in January 1997. Desiree Heiss, who studied fashion in University of Applied Arts in Vienna (graduated in 1994), met Ines Kaag from University of Arts and Design in Hannover (graduated in 1995) while she was still at the school. The collaboration work of two women who both have strong characteristics has been a rocky road. Having gone through many “clashes and tears”, they have progressed together. They would like to continue the collaboration.Desiree was taught by Vivienne Westwood, Helmut Lang and a costume designer Frida Parmeggiani at school. Frida inspired her the most, and Lang encouraged her to have confidence. But after she finished school, she realised she was very much influenced by Lang. She decided to make something completely different from what she used to make, because “I came to know that it was very important to go to where I could not be compared with someone else.” As a result of careful investigation and experiment, Bless creates four new items a year. They publish their new collection to the world by buying off advertisements in fashion magazines. All the items are limited production and you can buy them after the season if any stock is left. But price goes up, as the stock becomes scarce.
The footwear presented at Colette has two different types of sole (one with heels by Charles Jourdan and the other by New Balance) and comes with rubber bandage. You can cut the rubber bandage to fit your heel and shape it just like play dough. “I would like to present some ideas and what to do with them is up to the people who have bought them. I want them to play with them just like kids. I think interactive is most exciting now,” Desiree says.
- Fur wigs used in Margiela’s show (item no.00, limited edition of 93 pieces, sold out)
- Boot socks in jeans and leather (item no.01, limited edition of 120 pieces)
- Disposable t-shirts (item no.02, limited edition of 60 pieces, sold out)
- Set (item no.03, limited edition of 50 pieces)
- Bags (item no.04, five models, limited edition of 100 pieces each)
- Bless subscribe; a purchasable right to be part of the trust partnership valid for one year (item no.05)
- Footwear (item no.06, limited edition of 250 pairs).
Paris Collection Individuals, 1998–––1999––– Nakako Hayashi, Little More