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Kostas Murkudis
Photography James White Styling Darryl Rodrigues Make-up Topolino Hair Laurent Phillippon Special thanks Lionel Peralta
For a young designer just starting out, it is both a blessing and a curse to have worked for somebody well known. While it’s no guarantee of talent, the “assistant to” factor can draw the attention of store buyers and press that might not otherwise take a chance on an unknown figure. On the other hand, the expectations—and consequently the readiness to criticise the young protégé’s work as derivative—are escalated. It has been Kostas Murkudis’ particular blessing and curse to have worked with designer Helmut Lang for nearly seven years. So when Murkudis finally decided to go out on his own in 1994, it was not without a certain amount of trepidation. As if to stake his ground as far as far away from Lang territory as possible, Murkudis presented a first collection filled with colourful, long silhouettes inspired by own Greek heritage. Now with six seasons behind him, the designer seems to have settled into an aesthetic completely his own. Murkudis grew up in East Germany, a place he describes in retrospect as a prison. “I didn’t have television. I didn’t know Paris existed. It meant nothing to me,” he says. “It was okay; I was a little child. I didn’t know any differently.”

Visionaire’s Fashion 2001: Designers of the New Avant-Garde by Stephen Gan

Kostas Murkudis

Photography James White Styling Darryl Rodrigues Make-up Topolino Hair Laurent Phillippon Special thanks Lionel Peralta

For a young designer just starting out, it is both a blessing and a curse to have worked for somebody well known. While it’s no guarantee of talent, the “assistant to” factor can draw the attention of store buyers and press that might not otherwise take a chance on an unknown figure. On the other hand, the expectations—and consequently the readiness to criticise the young protégé’s work as derivative—are escalated. It has been Kostas Murkudis’ particular blessing and curse to have worked with designer Helmut Lang for nearly seven years. So when Murkudis finally decided to go out on his own in 1994, it was not without a certain amount of trepidation. As if to stake his ground as far as far away from Lang territory as possible, Murkudis presented a first collection filled with colourful, long silhouettes inspired by own Greek heritage. Now with six seasons behind him, the designer seems to have settled into an aesthetic completely his own. Murkudis grew up in East Germany, a place he describes in retrospect as a prison. “I didn’t have television. I didn’t know Paris existed. It meant nothing to me,” he says. “It was okay; I was a little child. I didn’t know any differently.”

Visionaire’s Fashion 2001: Designers of the New Avant-Garde by Stephen Gan

tags: #kostas murkudis #james white #darryl rodrigues #topolino #laurent phillippon #stephen gan #visionaire fashion 2001

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