Shaun Leane’s designs for McQueen’s Spring–Summer 1997 collection mirrored the elegant cruelty of McQueen’s razor-sharp cutting techniques, in a series of lethal-looking pieces that wrapped a single, long, silver, spike round the models’ heads in a range of ways. One circled around the model’s head like a halo; another wrapped round the front of the neck, its two sharply pointed ends streaming horizontally backwards from the model’s neck. Another pierced an ear, only to loop round to the front again, its two potentially fatal tips projecting far beyond the model’s cheeks and chin; a fourth snaked across the model’s face, slotting in and out of her mouth like a horses’ bit before curving upwards round her ears to project its long, shiny tips up and away from her temples like a fierce antennae.
Shaun Leane, sterling silver mouthpiece for Alexander McQueen, Spring–Summer 1997. Photograph courtesy Gavin Fernandes
Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness by Caroline Evans, Yale University Press