The Armoured Body
When Alexander McQueen drenched his models with ‘golden showers’ (actually water lit with yellow light) as they came down the catwalk, fashion exemplified the way that trauma was turned into a spectacle through the theatrical staging of transgression. In a show sponsored by American Express and art-directed by Simon Costin, McQueen harnessed the idea of the ‘money shot’ of pornography to fashion promotion; when American Express vetoed the show title Golden Showers he renamed it to Untitled, an ironic parody of art titles.
Alexander McQueen, Untitled, Spring–Summer 1998. Photograph Chris Moore, courtesy Alexander McQueen
Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness by Caroline Evans, Yale University Press